Ok I am going to get a cam/spring for my car but do not have $$$$$$$$ -- The see that LPE has

$399.95

Lingenfelter offers this excellent deal on one of the best street camshaft available for the LS1 engine. Tests have shown 25-30 HP improvement over factory LS1 camshafts with out reducing street driveablity. Kit includes valve springs and camshaft. Camshaft specifications: 207/220 duration @ .050 .573/.580 with 1.7 ratio rocker arms 118.5 CL


But I see the specs being 207/220 - I was thinking more along the lins of 224/244 or 222/222 but I Remember my car weighs about 4000lbs....so Low end torque is a absolute must. And drivability is also a must.

Any suggestions on duration? Or even a Kit?

Don't go bigger than 228@.050, and keep the LSA 112 or higher. My 224/228 114 Cartek cam is somewhat stealthy and I kept the torque. The cam was installed with a 3800 stall converter in mind, and the power is explosive at higher RPMs. Let me know your driving style, desired idle characteristics and how often the car sees the track and I'll be happy to help you pick your combo.

Track time is for fun only -- maybe 2-4 times per year. I doubt I will be able to do a stall for a while. Our cars weigh near 4Klbs so low end torque is a must to get the land yacht moving.

What I would like is a cam that will provide a good round power curve - I would like to maintain my 0-60 times but knock a bit off off my 1/4 times. Highway blasting is ok - say like 60 to xx or 80 to xx but I do not need a car that can go 200mph.

I do more redlight blasts and 1/4 mile type runs - but would like to also have a bit of passing on the highway capability.

Sorry for the lenght :friday:

Need to know what bolt-ons you currently have. I'm thinking that you may be happier with a 220/224 114 LSA as you won't lose any torque and the car won't lose any driveability. A dyno tune would be a must, and longtube headers would really help wake the car up even more. Your idle will probably be about 700 RPM with the cam listed above, and have a slight lope. Comp 918 springs would be good for that cam, with titanium retainers.

Only bolt on is a CAI.

No more bolt on's expected. Now for a while...no cash. The cam and Install is going to set me back $1K (depending on the cam) and I figure about 30-50hp out of it.

You'll probably gain more from a stall than a cam change, at least ET wise. Having said that, I have the GT2-3 and love it. If you want a stock idle, its the cam. If you want some talking, its definitely not the cam to get. Start your car up and listen to the exhaust...that's what the GT2-3 sounds like :)

I think any cam in the 220-224 range will get the job done. You just need to figure out your long term goals and go from there.

But it was my understanding that Stalls where not as "drivable"?

That and my **** tires could not handle any more on the launch as it is :(

Rob is correct about the stall, as far as driveability if you had a smaller one (2400-2600) you wouldn't even know it was in there until you laid into it. Just get the highest STR you can, I am partial to Precision(Vigilante) converters since they seem to have better reliability than others. The converter will really wake the car up. You don't necessarily have to add more HP to have a quicker car, the converter will let you use what's there already more effectively. The driveability will suffer more with a cam than a small converter. I love big stalls behind an LS1, I started with a 2400 Pro Torque in my C5 and then upgraded to a 3800 TCS(no longer in business so I use Precision now). The 2400 was barely noticeable until a WOT blast. I went 12.20@112 with a 1.70 60' on a stock motor with that TC and 3.42s in my C5 on worn out Nitto drag radials. I was worried about driveability at first myself, but was not worried at all after my first swap. Just do it and you WON'T be disappointed. It's also cheaper than a cam swap, you can take the money you save and add on until you have enough to pick up a set of Kook's headers :)