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Old 06-21-2006, 11:51 PM   #16
FROROCKS
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Ya might have to do some night time runs! Just have to be alittle more careful.
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:53 PM   #17
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should cool down slightly the rest of the week here in eastern nebraska its supposed to be highs in the mid to upper 80s .much better than the 97 we had yesterday.
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Old 06-22-2006, 08:50 AM   #18
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Ya might have to do some night time runs! Just have to be alittle more careful.
I've thought about it but I really don't like not being able to see. One deer on the road at 100 mph and it's all she wrote.



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2004 GTO: IBM/Blue A4 (1 of 369)
K&N CAI, JBA shorty headers & catted mids, SLP LM1, Pred. tuner, ported stock TB and MAF ends, Derale trans pan cooler, 180 Tstat, TB coolant bypass, Hankook Ventus V12's, King 0" drop rear springs, drag bags, Monroe Sensa-Trac rear shocks, SLP rear sway bar w/ end link bushings, Lovell's RR bushings, BMR skidplate, tow brace delete kit, DEPO black tail lamps, SCSS pod w/Aeroforce gauge


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Old 06-24-2006, 11:07 AM   #19
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i have HP Tuners and i downloaded the Pedator performance tune and flashed it to my VCM to get me started. altho it helped i ended up adding a lot of timing and made many adjustments to my VE and some small stuff that really kicked the car in the ass. those IATs are interesting tho aren't they? getting those down and reading them fast is of prime importance. you can see what i did that worked very well here http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79664
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Old 06-24-2006, 01:50 PM   #20
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Svede, I have followed through the thread listed in you above post. I have to say, "Wow!" I followed through both phases and found what I read to be very insightful, well written, and interesting. Now all you need to do is fabricate and market this setup. Good work, man.

-K
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Old 06-24-2006, 02:00 PM   #21
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Interesting stuff thanks for the link.

I've noticed my IAT's will always read about 9 to 10 degrees above the air temperature when up to speed. I have the K&N aircharger BTW. In fact today it was about 86 degrees outside and my IAT's would read about 95. There are a couple of other factors that may be leading to a higher IAT temp over air temp. I'm getting all these readings in the daytime with a BRIGHT sunshine on the road. I guarantee the air temperature above the road surface (where the intake is drawing the air) has got to be warmer than ambient air temperature. I'm going to test this theory by going out at night (no sunlight) and seeing how close the IAT's correspond to air temps. Now of course the road will still be warmer and the air will still be a little warmer to due to radiational heating. But it shouldn't be as bad as during the day.

I have thought about purchasing an IAT harness that would move the sensor away from its current position of next to the radiator and into the boxed in cone filter area. But I have a feeling this isn't going to reduce the IAT much at all. Besides, the computer is going to pull timing regardless. In fact I went WOT today and saw knock retard jump up to 4.35 degrees!!! I'd love to be able to play with the IAT tables like on HP tuners. But then I think I'd be worried to death about knock/detonation. That air that it's pulling in is still hot/humid and thin.

Short of nitrous or a Fall/Winter I think I'm just going to have to grin and bear this [email protected] air and the subsequent HP lowering that accompanies it.

Keep the information coming though, I love discussions like these.



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2004 GTO: IBM/Blue A4 (1 of 369)
K&N CAI, JBA shorty headers & catted mids, SLP LM1, Pred. tuner, ported stock TB and MAF ends, Derale trans pan cooler, 180 Tstat, TB coolant bypass, Hankook Ventus V12's, King 0" drop rear springs, drag bags, Monroe Sensa-Trac rear shocks, SLP rear sway bar w/ end link bushings, Lovell's RR bushings, BMR skidplate, tow brace delete kit, DEPO black tail lamps, SCSS pod w/Aeroforce gauge


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Old 06-24-2006, 02:02 PM   #22
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thread hijack: thanks, easy to do with hardware store parts and a filter for under $100. the only thing is if you don't have a MAF tube like my JHP you can get a rubber elbow fitting to fit on your throttle body. the thermisitor i got from Omega (http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...ERMIS_ELEMENTS) for $15. the intake kicks butt
unhijack thread

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Old 06-24-2006, 02:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orbit Orange
Interesting stuff thanks for the link.

I've noticed my IAT's will always read about 9 to 10 degrees above the air temperature when up to speed. I have the K&N aircharger BTW. In fact today it was about 86 degrees outside and my IAT's would read about 95. There are a couple of other factors that may be leading to a higher IAT temp over air temp. I'm getting all these readings in the daytime with a BRIGHT sunshine on the road. I guarantee the air temperature above the road surface (where the intake is drawing the air) has got to be warmer than ambient air temperature. I'm going to test this theory by going out at night (no sunlight) and seeing how close the IAT's correspond to air temps. Now of course the road will still be warmer and the air will still be a little warmer to due to radiational heating. But it shouldn't be as bad as during the day.

I have thought about purchasing an IAT harness that would move the sensor away from its current position of next to the radiator and into the boxed in cone filter area. But I have a feeling this isn't going to reduce the IAT much at all. Besides, the computer is going to pull timing regardless. In fact I went WOT today and saw knock retard jump up to 4.35 degrees!!! I'd love to be able to play with the IAT tables like on HP tuners. But then I think I'd be worried to death about knock/detonation. That air that it's pulling in is still hot/humid and thin.

Short of nitrous or a Fall/Winter I think I'm just going to have to grin and bear this [email protected] air and the subsequent HP lowering that accompanies it.

Keep the information coming though, I love discussions like these.
i was thinking the same thing but i logged IATs last saturday when it was 92-95* here. at 3:00 in the afternoon in the bright sun i was getting between 2-4* above ambient. i've tried several variations and the stocker thermistor lags actual air temps. the stocker could take up to 5 minutes of highway driving to come down. the Omega one responds in 4-7 seconds. that's why i went with a tiny fast acting one. altho the thermistor is right after the filter, with the heavily insulated intake i'm confident i'm not getting any significant heat up of the air from there to the TB. a buddy of mine and i are working on adapting these priciples to his LPE intake. i'll let you know how it works out.

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Old 06-24-2006, 02:31 PM   #24
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Has there been any serious work on, or thought given to, using water to lower IATs? It seems that evaporation, which is a cooling process, could be used to substantially lower IATs, assuming the IAT sensor is properly located. I had read a post in the past that alluded to this. In fact, if I recall correctly an experiment was conducted in which the air filter was wetted, but not to the point of saturation, and the IATs measured. The results of this experiment were favorable in terms of lowered IATs. Maybe I need to pull out a piece of paper and a pencil and start calculating. How cool would it be to get IATs lower than ambient?

-K
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Old 06-24-2006, 03:32 PM   #25
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i'm not sure that would work very easily. altho a wet filter would lower IAT through evaporation you shouldn't have the water evaporate directly in the intake as that would raise your DA and take you back a step. an intercooler type of thing would be bulky, expensive and questionably effective. i like the thinking tho
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Old 06-24-2006, 08:22 PM   #26
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Yep what svede said, I would think the the density of the intake air would be raised.

Speaking of crazy talk, instead of water how about another combustable liquid like rubbing alcohol or methanol. Put a little alcohol or methanol on your finger and blow and you'll feel the cooling effects of evaporation much more readily than water, and on top of that wouldn't it also be combustable? (Not sure what it would do to the A/F mixture, I'm no combustion expert)

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i've tried several variations and the stocker thermistor lags actual air temps. the stocker could take up to 5 minutes of highway driving to come down.
Wow, really? That is a long time. I'll watch my IAT on startup and it lags but it seems to be only 5 to 10 seconds behind. And on the highway it seems to take maybe 20 to 30 seconds. I'll time it next time I'm out. If your IAT's are only 2-4 above ambient it could be I'm getting about a 5 degree heat soak. I've got to get back out and do some data collection.



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2004 GTO: IBM/Blue A4 (1 of 369)
K&N CAI, JBA shorty headers & catted mids, SLP LM1, Pred. tuner, ported stock TB and MAF ends, Derale trans pan cooler, 180 Tstat, TB coolant bypass, Hankook Ventus V12's, King 0" drop rear springs, drag bags, Monroe Sensa-Trac rear shocks, SLP rear sway bar w/ end link bushings, Lovell's RR bushings, BMR skidplate, tow brace delete kit, DEPO black tail lamps, SCSS pod w/Aeroforce gauge


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Old 06-25-2006, 08:21 AM   #27
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it might be possible that some of the lag was due to the intake pulling from under the car. ever feel the heat roll out when you're at a stop light? the shielding helps keep the air from recirculating. before the shielding even at highway speed it was sucking some of that heat over. at the track you'll see a bigbenefit from this system. people that have logged there have heat soak pretty bad. a few seconds makes a huge difference in the quarter mile.
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Old 06-25-2006, 09:06 PM   #28
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a little update. today i went to the track. it was about 77* and very humid. the track sucked and my best was only a 13.08 but my IATs were 5* above ambient staging, dropping to ambient within 3 seconds of launch. i logged anothers LPE and couldn't get any temps anywhere near mine in a 1/4 mile run.
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:23 PM   #29
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but my IATs were 5* above ambient staging, dropping to ambient within 3 seconds of launch.
You da' man!

What track did you run at?



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2004 GTO: IBM/Blue A4 (1 of 369)
K&N CAI, JBA shorty headers & catted mids, SLP LM1, Pred. tuner, ported stock TB and MAF ends, Derale trans pan cooler, 180 Tstat, TB coolant bypass, Hankook Ventus V12's, King 0" drop rear springs, drag bags, Monroe Sensa-Trac rear shocks, SLP rear sway bar w/ end link bushings, Lovell's RR bushings, BMR skidplate, tow brace delete kit, DEPO black tail lamps, SCSS pod w/Aeroforce gauge


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Old 06-26-2006, 06:21 AM   #30
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US-131 dragway in Martin, Michigan. everytime i've been there the track wouldn't hook. everybody was having the same problem. i have DRs and with a massive burnout and 18# in the tires i still spun all the way thru first but i did chirp all 4 gears . i think the car has a 12.7 in her the way she sits.
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