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Old 01-08-2009, 05:22 PM   #1
NEXSTAR7
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heads ,cam , in confused?

i have some bolt ons and ive been dynoed at 420 @ the crank. can a cam , new valve train combined with a 3000 or 3200 stall get me at 400 to the rear and get me mid 12"s if so what do you sudjest for he torque converter and the cam. will i loose some driveabilty? thanks
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:04 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEXSTAR7
i have some bolt ons and ive been dynoed at 420 @ the crank. can a cam , new valve train combined with a 3000 or 3200 stall get me at 400 to the rear and get me mid 12"s if so what do you sudjest for he torque converter and the cam. will i loose some driveabilty? thanks
i wouldn't worry about peak HP. it's misleading. remember when you're running your car it spends very little time at that peak HP RPM number. it's what it does "under the curve" with this heavy beast that scoots you down the track the quickest. my 12.34 is with a LS1, Street Sweeper HT cam, UD pulley, headers and 3.91s with a stick (plus some other little goodies). the SS HT cam is an awesome cam for these cars. FlowTech Inductions custom grinds it and along with the supporting stuff it is a little more than an off the shelf grind but is a great package. for a stall a Vig 3200 works great. with those two things plus some M/T Streets or DRs you'll be in the low 12s-high 11s. the custom tune is what will give/or not your driveability. mine has nice manners
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:43 AM   #3
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I think the real question is can you drive and hook up the power? Have you run the car at the track yet to baseline the mods you have? Your an auto, a TC and tires may be all you need. What year is your car? Don't put the cart before the horse asking for a cam right off the bat unless that is just the way you want to go. If so, do you have access to real tuning besides a diablo?
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:06 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by c5vette
I think the real question is can you drive and hook up the power? Have you run the car at the track yet to baseline the mods you have? Your an auto, a TC and tires may be all you need. What year is your car? Don't put the cart before the horse asking for a cam right off the bat unless that is just the way you want to go. If so, do you have access to real tuning besides a diablo?
i have a 2006. im not sure. should i go heads,valve train and cam. or cam , torque conveter? as for the tuning. mine was tuned on a dynojet.
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Old 01-09-2009, 07:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by NEXSTAR7
i have a 2006. im not sure. should i go heads,valve train and cam. or cam , torque conveter? as for the tuning. mine was tuned on a dynojet.
Budget?

You dynoed 420 at the crank? I'm not sure how that happens on a chassis dyno. Lets compare apples to apples. How much did you dyno to the wheels in SAE? Were you tuned with a diablo or real tuning software like HPT or EFIL?

The only valvetrain you need will be springs and possibly pushrods depending on how big a cam you choose. Regardless of head/cam or cam only, you will want a TC. Your launch is where the et comes from, hence the TC and sticky tire comment. Have you baselined the car at the track to give yourself an idea of how much et you need to drop to reach your goal?

If you are serious about doing a combo, it's a bit more complicted than just asking generic questions. There are a ton of different heads and cams out there. The biggest point is to make sure you have a capable tuner with real software to dial in your combination. Especially with an a4 and TC. Be a bit more specific.
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by c5vette
Budget?

You dynoed 420 at the crank? I'm not sure how that happens on a chassis dyno. Lets compare apples to apples. How much did you dyno to the wheels in SAE? Were you tuned with a diablo or real tuning software like HPT or EFIL?

The only valvetrain you need will be springs and possibly pushrods depending on how big a cam you choose. Regardless of head/cam or cam only, you will want a TC. Your launch is where the et comes from, hence the TC and sticky tire comment. Have you baselined the car at the track to give yourself an idea of how much et you need to drop to reach your goal?

If you are serious about doing a combo, it's a bit more complicted than just asking generic questions. There are a ton of different heads and cams out there. The biggest point is to make sure you have a capable tuner with real software to dial in your combination. Especially with an a4 and TC. Be a bit more specific.
thanks. i just pmed you. you seem like the right guy to talk to.
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:02 PM   #7
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thanks. i just pmed you. you seem like the right guy to talk to.
Others can help too... As C5vette was eluding to, they give you rear wheel #s not crank. Hopefully you didn't just go for a dyno with your predator tune. Need a real tune like c5vette mentioned.
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:20 AM   #8
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Others can help too... As C5vette was eluding to, they give you rear wheel #s not crank. Hopefully you didn't just go for a dyno with your predator tune. Need a real tune like c5vette mentioned.
he made 3 runs on the dyno jet and made adjustments on the tuner to get me more power than the tuner could. i hope that was correct.
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:52 AM   #9
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he made 3 runs on the dyno jet and made adjustments on the tuner to get me more power than the tuner could. i hope that was correct.

I'll give you a call later.


Chris
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:13 PM   #10
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Our only goal as late model GTO owners should be the total destruction of any and all others vehicles....ride that path and see where you get
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:52 PM   #11
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Our only goal as late model GTO owners should be the total destruction of any and all others vehicles....ride that path and see where you get
first of all i'd like to say im sorry. bad info. just to keep you informed. i was dynoed at 366 rhp with the bolt ons and tuner.i did do the stage two heads and cam by liverenoise after. so far on the installers dyno dynamics i got 433 to the rear and about 420 in torque. i told them not to set it to kill. what im looking for is a great tuner and some decent tires. how do you think i'll do at the track? and if tuned properly what do you think would be the hp gains and torque ?thanks Ralph im in new york
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:03 AM   #12
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What dyno did they tune your car on? I did a mild cam and intake and dynoed at 412rwhp. That was on a Mustang dyno. Mid/low 12's should be easy, just as long as you can hook up.
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:48 AM   #13
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not sure on the dyno. it was level with the floor. my paper work says DYNO DYNAMIC . wow , mid to low 12's. i'll be happy with that. i just purchased some bf goodrich g force ss/ as for getting around. now im looking for a pair of stock 17'' rims so i can put some sticky tires then put snow tires for winter. thanks for the info just looked it up. its a chassie dyno. do you think the readings are off. if yes how much do you think. was i dynoed to high? thanks again
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:51 AM   #14
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not sure on the dyno. it was level with the floor. my paper work says DYNO DYNAMIC . wow , mid to low 12's. i'll be happy with that. i just purchased some bf goodrich g force ss/ as for getting around. now im looking for a pair of stock 17'' rims so i can put some sticky tires then put snow tires for winter. thanks for the info just looked it up. its a chassie dyno. do you think the readings are off. if yes how much do you think. was i dynoed to high? thanks again


From my understanding. DynoJet reads the highest, then Dyno Dynamic, and then Mustang.
DynoJet can read 5-10% higher then Dyno Dynamic. And the DynoJet can read 10-18% higher then the Mustang. But there are a lot of variables. For tuning you really want a load based dyno. A dynoJet is not load based and is pure HP readings.
All those HP numbers dont mean crap. Take it to the track. Those numbers are what really maters!
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:27 PM   #15
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will do as soon as i can. and will post. thanks
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